Mt. Shuksan via the North Face (grade III-IV) is a serious snow-and-ice route of moderate steepness on one of the most beautiful mountains in the Cascades. The North Face route offers the classic Mt. Shuksan challenges: approach difficulties through a valley choked with slide alder, problems with route-finding on the complex peak, and the physical demands resulting from the sheer size of the mountain. But it is a rewarding and direct route to the summit with a satisfying feeling of openness and exposure, a sublime setting, and a view down to Price Lake, milky with glacier slit. The climbing is 40- to 50- degree snow and ice. As with all such routes, snow conditions can be a major variable. As with all routes on Mt. Shuksan, this route can be considered strenuous.

Activity Notes

 

Mt. Shuksan / North Face (grade IV, 40-55* snow, glacier terrain)

This climb requires...

  • significant physical fitness
  • dialed crevasse rescue skills
  • a lot of snow climbing experience

This route is comparable in difficulty to the North Ridge of Mt. Baker (but this route would be a much longer summit day), and Kautz Glacier on Mt. Rainier (but this climb has more challenging glacier navigation). Applicants should feel equally prepared to participate in those climbs, before applying to this one.

This will be a three day trip to climb the North Face of Mt. Shuksan, with one night camped in the alpine.

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As a note, I deliberately focus on selecting a diverse, and gender-balanced team when selecting applicants to my climbs. I take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, sufficient skill level for the route, and how they can increase the diversity of the climb team. This especially extends to the selection of the climb assistants, and lead-climbers, in order to open opportunity for their training as future leaders in the Mazamas.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me, or the assistant.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 310 miles
Driving Time from Portland 5 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks
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