This is an extended traverse of the Tatoosh Range from Unicorn Peak to Eagle Peak. The skills, routes, and expectations already assumed for climbs of Unicorn, Castle, Pinnacle are the same. We plan to summit up to 9 peaks en route on this traverse. Max climbing skills are up to low 5th class rock (Unicorn), snow to 30 degrees if present (Unicorn), and rapping (Unicorn, Castle). The rest of the peaks are 3rd and 4th class scrambles.

Activity Notes

The Tatoosh Range is located on the southern boundary of Mt. Rainier National Park. The 11 officially named peaks in the range (from east to west) are Stevens Peak (6510'), Boundary Peak (6720'), Unicorn (6917'), The Castle (+6440'), Pinnacle Peak (6562'), Plummer Peak (6370'), Denman Peak (6006'), Lane Peak (6012'), Wahpenayo Peak (6231'), Chutla Peak (+6000') and Eagle Peak (5958'). A twelfth peak, Foss (6524’), lies between Unicorn and the Castle.

The lower slopes are treed and brushy but there are three trails that make approaches to the alpine areas relatively easy. On the west end a trail leads from Longmire (c.2800') to the Eagle-Chutla Saddle (+5720') in 3.6 miles. The Pinnacle Peak Trail begins at Reflection Lake (c.4900') and reaches the saddle (c.6000') between Plummer and Pinnacle Peaks in 1.3 miles. The Snow Lake Trail leads from the trailhead on Stevens Canyon Road (4500') to Snow Lake (c.4700') in 1.1 miles; beyond this there is a climber’s path that leads to the talus basin NW of Unicorn Peak. 

We will travel from east to west and will camp out one night en route. The leader will decide which of the twelve peaks listed above to attempt, depending on group member strength, experience, and interest as well as on weather, terrain, and possibly other factors. The initial idea, subject to change, is to focus on Stevens, Unicorn, The Castle, Pinnacle, Wahpenayo, and Eagle Peaks.

Team members must be in excellent condition, comfortable with snow travel and on low 5th class rock, knowledgeable of the intended route, have good routefinding skills, and be able to pack light and travel at a moderate to fast pace. 

Carpooling is encouraged, as is driving up the night before the climb and camping or staying in a hotel nearby.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 200 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
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