Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
The South Side route is a high, gentle climb great for beginning climbers who want an overnight trip with fewer people and a more wilderness feel than Hood. There are no crevasses on this route. Be careful if you glissade - a twisted ankle here is a LOT more serious problem than on Hood. Skiers take note: this route can have over a 6,000 foot vertical descent in early season! Ambitious and fit climbers can try this car to car in one day.
Activity Notes
This climb is another excellent introduction to mountaineering straight outta BCEP. The route will take us up to the Lunch Counter (~9000ft) for a single overnight camping experience (possibly in the snow), and we will summit the mountain Sunday and head back home. The expectation is this may be a slower climb since there will be novice climbers on the team. So please be patient.
You will need crampons, helmet, & an ice axe. An ice axe leash is required. A harness might be ideal for leashing your ice axe to yourself, but it is not required since there is no expectation of rappelling/prussiking. You will need sunglasses and sunscreen. We will melt snow for water on this route, so we will split stoves and fuel and water filters amongst the team. We will cook dinner too so you can bring rehydratable dinner with you. You need to carry approx. 2 - 3 liters of water on yourself. You will need a lunch, dinner, and breakfast. You are expected to pack out all human waste, so be prepared to carry it out if you go #2. Your pack should be ~35lbs max or less. Be prepared for the best glissading in the PNW later in the day.
All Climbers will need to purchase your own climbing permit once you are accepted on this climb: https://www.recreation.gov/activitypass/4280e9ae-d010-11ea-8e82-82c0c22bed90
Please add your to my carpooling sheet, even if you are driving separately so I can account for everyone: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_XbDR-5Rni42fupxs21c2Plmq0bwPFh7XhU2C7xE5U4/edit#gid=1545421305
Keep an eye on the current climbing conditions: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/giffordpinchot/alerts-notices/?cid=stelprdb5435984
Keep an eye on the weather: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=46.18327717744471&lon=-121.48441314697266
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 100 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Adams West and Mt. Adams East, or USDA Forest Service Mt. Adams Wilderness map Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.199593,-121.4982232,14.33z/data=!5m1!1e4 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
