Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Shuksan is located approximately six miles to the east of Mount Baker in the North Cascades. Mssr. Beckey has this to say about this route: €œIt is a clever and tortuous route, not technically difficult, but involving stimulating route finding.€ (Ahh, that €œstimulating€ Beckey route finding!) This route can be a challenge for those who find steep snow and class 3-4 rock with big exposure to be unnerving. There have been some L O N G days spent on this peak by the unprepared. Know the route as best you can and start early.
Activity Notes
Queerzamas climb: this climb is a queer affinity space climb, where all participants and leaders self-identify as part of the queer community. Please send me a quick email message to apply.
Mt. Shuksan / Fisher Chimneys (grade III, 4th class, steep snow, glacier terrain)
Team of 4-6.
This will be a three day trip to climb the Fisher Chimneys route of Mt. Shuksan, with one night camped in the high alpine on snow.
This climb requires...
- significant physical fitness for sustained all day climbing
- crevasse rescue skills
- moderate amount snow climbing experience
- strong skills with axe/crampons
- comfortable with 4th class slab rock terrain unprotected scrambling
We'll depart from the Lake Anne trailhead, and ascend nearly the entire route to the Sulfide Glacier, and move towards the summit pyramid to make camp on the snow. Physical fitness, curated gear selection, and good packing are important. To get to camp, we'll climb with full packs through ongoing technical terrain, sustained 4th class scrambling, and two glacier crossings (distance 7.0 miles, elevation change: +4902' -1686')
During Queerzamas climbs, we are committed to cultivating a supportive and inclusive learning environment for all participants. We proudly affirm that this course is LGBTQ+ friendly and supportive, welcoming individuals of all gender identities and sexual orientations. We honor and respect each person's gender pronouns. Additionally, we strive to create a positive and supportive space that embraces diversity in all its forms. Regardless of race, age, gender, or life background, everyone is valued and respected here. It's our expectation that every applicant and accepted student will actively contribute to maintaining this safe and inclusive environment. Anticipate engaging in respectful dialogue and offering mutual support as we collectively strive for a positive and enriching alpine climbing experience.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 320 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 6 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/fisher-chimneys/155674 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Shuksan/forecasts/2782 USFS Glacier Public Service Center: (360) 599-2714 Located approximately six miles to the east of Mount Baker in the North Cascades, Mount Shuksan is the tallest non-volcanic peak in the Cascades. From Selected Climbs in the Cascades (Nelsen and Potterfield): "The massive and complex Mount Shuksan - whose handsome profile from Picture Lake has become a frequent photographic cliché - offers no less than five rugged faces, with four of them commonly climbed. Big, remote, interesting, and guarded by sometimes troublesome approaches, Mt Shuksan exerts a strong attraction for climbers drawn to its wilderness slopes and rugged beauty." Beckey writes about the route, “It is a clever and tortuous route, not technically difficult, but involving stimulating route finding.” (Ahh, that “stimulating” Beckey route finding!) The Fisher Chimneys is an interesting and demanding route, providing a serious challenge to those who are out-of-shape or who are nervous climbing exposed slopes on high angle snow or unbelayed through Class 3 - 4 rock chimneys in mountaineering boots. Many parties have had very long climbs on this route (20 hours+!) Clarence “Happy” Fisher pioneered the route in 1927. See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for more detailed look at this area’s geologic and climbing history. |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Rainy Pass to Fraser River by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Shuksan, Green Trails Map #14, and US Forest Service Mt. Baker National Forest map Google map https://goo.gl/maps/AE5tpQzsSUr |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
