Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake

Activity Notes

This is a fun, one-day rock and snow climb appropriate for those who have completed BCEP. The climb starts with an easy hike into Snow Lake. At the lake, we will likely put on our crampons and helmets and take out our ice axes to climb the chute, a good place to practice your rest step. At the top of the chute, we will turn the corner and climb another snow slope of varying steepness to a notch. If we are lucky and the rock below the notch has not yet melted  out, we will have an easy ascent to the notch. If the rock has melted out, we'll figure out a way to climb the rock, be it either a scramble of via use of a rope. Above the notch, we will continue uphill and then traverse to the base of the summit block.

We will climb the summit block via the low-fifth class Open Books route. The rock climb will be involve a fixed line followed by a belayed climb. We will rappel off the summit and then retrace our path to the trailhead. If snow conditions are appropriate, we will glissade both the upper snow slopes and the chute on the descent.

Expect a reasonably long day. Conditions the past few years have been "interesting" so plan to be flexible and patient as we find the best routes up and down the mountain.

I plan to camp at Cougar Rock the night before the climb. Climb team members can either join me at the campsite at the Cougar Rock campground the night before the climb or drive up early on the morning of the climb. 

Costs: If you choose to camp, plan to split the cost of the campsite. Cost will depend on how many people and cars we have at the campsite.  Vehicle entry into Mount Rainier National Park is $30 per car if you do not have a Mount Rainier Annual Pass or an America the Beautiful pass (i.e, National Park Pass). Note that Mt Rainier Park entrance booths and campgrounds are cashless.