Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
The highest point in Oregon, this route gets the vast majority of Hood ascents. A weekday climb during prime season (early May - late June) can avoid most of the crowds.
The South Side is a general term for several different "chutes" on the south side of the mountain, including the Old Chute, Mazama Chute, and Pearly Gates. The most popular route on an given season depends on the snow accumulation and snow conditions.
The Pearly Gates was the most heavily used route to the summit of Mt. Hood until 2006 when a dramatic shift in the Hogsback and the increased steepness of the this route made the Old Chute the more typical ascent route. The left chute of the Pearly Gates offers a short "step" of steeper snow/ice climbing, while the right chute of the Gates can offer several steps of steeper snow/ice. You cross over the bergschrund to get into the Gates. You can descend by rappelling or downclimbing the route, or by traversing over to the Old Chute.
The Old Chute is a great route to ascend if the bergschrund is impassable or Pearly Gates are jammed with people.
Activity Notes
Early season climb of Mt. Hood from the south side. We will evaluate conditions closer to the climb and go up either old chute / pearly gates and most likely come down old chute. Will wait until about a week out to start accepting climbers.
I will look to start making firmer plans / dates about a week out. Go/No Go will likely have to be days out. We will be starting from timberline lodge at a time yet to be determined. This will most likely be an early start (12am-4am) from timber lodge.
Mt Hood has a potential for a bad fall above crater rock, with the runout being long or ending in a fumarole. Everyone is to be on high alert once we ascend above Crater rock.
Pay attention, do not try to go faster than what might be reasonable for you. If you are struggling for any reason, speak up
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DESCENT NOTES
Please have some experience with downclimbing in steep / icy terrain before applying. We will continue to have discussions on what everyone is comfortable with starting now and throughout the climb.
If the climb goes, we will most likely descend the old chute route. This dictates at least 3 points of contact facing the mountain, with the ax being in a high dagger position. You also have to be aware of ice coming from climbers above you. While it is courteous to not knock stuff down on climbers below you, sometimes it is beyond your control. For that, it is recommended that the team follow a staggered formation while descending. We will talk more about this as the climb gets closer.
At all points of time, be aware of your crampons and how they may catch on your pants or boots.
Use your ax (you will have two tools) in a self arrest position
There was a recent accident on a mazama climb of an experienced climber descending the chutes
https://www.oregonlive.com/environment/2023/11/im-going-to-die-portland-woman-falls-hundreds-of-feet-on-mt-hood-ponders-how-she-survived.html?outputType=amp
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If you are newer to climbing or have questions, I encourage you to reach out to me before to make sure this climb is a good fit for you!
Latest Climb Information - https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mthood/recreation/?cid=FSEPRD1018659
Winter climbs of Mt Hood are very different from spring/summer. If you have not summitted the mountain before, please talk to the leader.
Email any questions -> pheNam2000@gmail.com
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 65 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Distance - Round Trip | 6 miles |
| General Route Info | This is the standard and most commonly climbed route on Mount Hood. Proximity to ski lifts makes returning to the trailhead and low visibility substantially easier. Photographs taken at the turn of the century show the Hogback in the position it is found in today. Photographs taken during the 1920s, 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s show the Hogaback shifted sharply to the west and significant reduced in size. Sometime during the 1960s the Hogback again shifted east to its current position and grew in size. In 1930s the gully which led from the top of the Hogback to the summit became known as the Chute. When the Hogback shifted back toward the east in the 1960s, climbers followed it and started to use a different gully to gain the summit. Although the route was different, it was still called the Chute. To distinguish between the two, the term Old Chute means the route to the west. From the Hogback, climb diagonally up and left on a steep face which leads to the summit ridge. Turn right and follow the ridge to the top. When you reach the top of the Old Chute, do not be surprised by the narrowness of the ridgetop and the sharp drop down the north face. -From Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, Geo Graphics Mt. Hood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3704953,-121.7015928,15.02z/data=!5m1!1e4?hl=en |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
