Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Mt. Baker reclaimed the world record for single season snowfall in 1998-99 - 95 FEET, taking it from Rainier. Next to Rainier, Baker is the most glaciated peak in the lower 48 states. This is a fairly long route with moderate crevasse risk. Camping on the edge of the Coleman Glacier is spectacular! The lower camp is best, before you get onto the glacier. Fit, small teams can do this route car to car in a day.
Activity Notes
Please be aware that you must be a Mazamas member to apply for climbs. The team will be selected as soon as possible after the registration closing date.
Mount Baker is known as "Koma Lulshan" to the Lummi Tribe of Puget Sound, meaning "broken or damaged."
The marine warm air from Puget Sound brings a great deal of snowfall to Mount Baker. Next to Mount Rainier, Mount Baker is the most glaciated peak in the lower 48 states. Our route will take us over and close to the largest glacier area (Coleman and Roosevelt) and well as the most interesting ice displays (Deming).
Due to the glaciation and possible crevasses, all climb members must be fluent in crevasse rescue. Applicants without glacier experience and/or crevasse rescue training will not be considered for the climb.
Approach, climb, and descent:
We will meet at the Glacier Public Service Center in Glacier, WA at 9:00a on Day 1. From there we will drive to the trailhead (3,700 ft) and then hike to our campsite between 6,000 and 7200 ft depending on conditions. If the afternoon we will review crevasse rescue skills.
On Summit Day (Day 2), we’ll get up early for an alpine start. We’ll be roped up right away and ascend the Coleman Glacier (avoiding crevasses) S and SE toward Black Buttes, and then bear to the ice saddle between East Butte and the summit cone. From the saddle (9,000 ft) we’ll climb about 300 ft onto the Deming Glacier and then go around and behind the Roman wall for the finish at the summit. Decent will be the same route. We will spend a second night in camp.
On Day 3 we will hike out to the trailhead and drive home.
The total ascent from the trailhead is approx. 7,000 feet.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 310 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 7 hours |
| General Route Info | Glacier Public Service Center at 360-599-2714 or Mt. Baker Ranger District office at 360-856-5700 Summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/coleman-deming-glaciers/155420 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Rainy Pass to Fraser River by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Baker, and Green Trails Mt. Baker Google map https://goo.gl/maps/CUmbtDQkkjk |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
