Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
This is a great climb on good rock on classic Mt. Stuart, and an fairly easy approach. Routefinding (climbing and descending) can be extremely tricky; this route is famous for overnight epics by those who get lost. Research it well, and try a web search for the many posted trip reports. Bring guidebook photocopies! You can bivy on the route, go camp to camp (recommended), or, if you are fast and have small team, (4 or fewer) you can send this route car to car in a long day. Combine this with a Ingalls Peak climb for a great Cascades granite weekend. Use the nice creek at the trailhead to cool off your post climb beverages. Forest fires are common in this area in the summer - call the USFS in Leavenworth WA before you leave town to be sure the trails are open.
Activity Notes
NOTE: This climb is a mentored training climb intending to teach all the components of how to plan, organize, and lead a group climb up a moderate technical rock route. The typical participant would be someone who's completed ICS and is considering leading climbs for others-- for example as a Mazama Climb Leader. There will be much higher expectations for participants on this climb than for other typical Mazama climb. Participants will be expected to contribute to all the steps of planning and executing this climb, which will include in-town meeting(s) and/or homework prior to the climb. All participants who are Leadership Development participants can receive an "LD climb assist eval" if they'd like one for this experience.
If you apply for this climb, but I don't already know you personally, please drop me a line to introduce yourself and just say hello.
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Mt. Stuart, West Ridge: Grade III, low 5th, extensive 4th class scrambling
- Day 1- Drive up, hike in, make camp
- Day 2- Alpine start, climb route, descend Cascadian Couloir route, camp
- Day 3- Break camp, hike out, drive home
Climb day has +4800 feet of gain/loss, 5-6 miles of challenging terrain, and we'll be carrying heavy alpine rock packs, no water available on route so everything must be carried. This route has significant navigation challenges, extensive 4th class scrambling for hundreds of vertical feet, a multi-pitch technical rock summit, and never-ending variable scree descent. We'll be moving at a steady and consistent pace all day. This route requires everyone to be solidly in "climbing shape." We will not get benighted.
Dates:
- Two In-town planning meeting: Sometime during 8/7 - 8/18 (two week window)
- Climb dates: Sun-Tues 8/27 - 8/29
Skills Requirements:
- Outdoor rock climbing experience
- Rock gym climbing grades: should be comfortable/casual top-roping 5.10+
- Lead belay skills with significant experience
- Some familiarity with basic multi-pitch climbing
- Alpine rappelling experience
- Experience/training in basic rock rescue (ascending a rope, tandem rappels)
Physical Fitness:
- Day of summit: 4800' of gain with 5.0 miles total in heavy alpine rock packs.
- Totals for three days: 8200' of gain/loss, 13.0 miles total
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As a note, when assembling climbers for a Mazama climb, I deliberately strive for a diverse, and balanced team. I principally take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, skill level for the route, and how they can contribute to the climb team’s diversity. Diversity consideration especially applies to the selection of the assistant and lead climber(s), to help expand the diversity in prospective Climb Leaders in the Mazamas.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 275 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| General Route Info | The West Ridge Route is probably the second most popular technical route on Mount Stuart. The route is long and complicated with many opportunities to get off route onto more difficult terrain. It can be done car to car in a day, but it is not uncommon for parties to have route finding problems and bivouac on the route or descent. Most parties will probably opt for climbing from a camp in the vicinity of Ingalls Lake. Several other routes on the mountain merge with and finish to the summit via the upper part of the West Ridge Route. From the south the West Ridge Couloir joins the route at the West Ridge Notch. From the north, the Northwest Buttress, Razorback Ridge, and Stuart Glacier Couloir join the route near the Notch. The Northwest Face of the Lower West Ridge offers a 600 foot technical start (5.9) to the route, joining it at the top of the first long couloir. Lex Maxwell, Fred Llewellyn, and John Vertrees made the first ascent of the West Ridge in August of 1935. USFS Leavenworth Ranger station: 509-548-6977 USFS Cle Elum Ranger Station, 509-674-4411 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Creek(s), Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey (use the new third edition) |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Stuart, WA, and Green Trails: Mt. Stuart, WA No 209 Google map https://goo.gl/maps/haaV1tkGcUN2 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
