Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
The Disappointment Cleaver route on Rainier is the most climbed route on the mountain, and is among the least technical. With Rainier Mountaineering guiding the majority is their clients up this route, the Cleaver sees a lot the approximately 10,000 annual summit attempts. This is a long strenuous climb (9,000 vertical feet) and demands solid aerobic conditioning. $30 climb fee per person. Call the NPS or see their web site for the latest permit regulations. The Ingraham Glacier route is an alternative often used in early season when avy danger is high on the Cleaver route. Try it on a weekday for more solitude.
Activity Notes
Two day climb of the Disappointment Cleaver route on Mount Rainier. Plan to meet at the Paradise Ranger station at 9am to get permits, confirm gear, etc. then set out up the Muir snowfield to Camp Muir to set camp. Set up camp, confirm route, gear and crevasse rescue, then eat and rest before out climb. Get a midnight or so start to the climb, summit and return to camp for a quick rest and then hike back to the cars.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 150 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
