Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
"Middle" in difficulty between South and North Sister, this is a nice climb with a great approach - just about 5 miles and 1500 vertical feet to great camping at treeline (from the east). A bit of snow travel, gentle slopes, and one pitch of steep near the top make this a good route for those looking for a moderate multi day trip.
Be wary of crevasses on this route! Roping up on the Hayden Glacier is highly recommended. There are some really B I G crevasses on this benign looking glacier that you may not see at all until late season - or until you drop into one of them.
The North Ridge route can be approached from the east or west. East is via the Pole Creek trailhead and Hayden Glacier. From camp, head up towards the Hayden Glacier, and follow the ridge along the glacier to the saddle. Then climb up the North Ridge. On the North Ridge is loose rock and perhaps a 1 pitch 35+ degree snow field. Early season ascents are possible, but a GPS or solid compass skills are recommended if the approach trail is snow covered.
An alternative route from the West side is more of the NW Ridge, more of a boulder-hop staircase than the scree of the North ridge proper. Check with the USFS for permit requirements if you are coming in from the west via Obsidian Trailhead.
Activity Notes
My goal is to assemble an engaged team that is based on respect, communication, and situational awareness. I strive to build a culture of safety, enjoy the wonder of the outdoors, keep my mind open to learning, and enjoy the company of fellow climbers. Everyone has something to contribute this climb. Please come prepared to be a engaged team member.
With the high levels of snow that the area has received, I will be preparing for camping on snow and melting water.
This will be a three day climb. After our summit bid we will spend the night at base camp.
Climbing Skills Required: Roped team travel, snow climbing/traversing on up to 30 degree slopes, self arrest, rappelling, and possible running belay travel.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 170 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| General Route Info | Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District, 541-549-7700 Summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/middle-sister/150448 Middle Sister is the fifth highest point in Oregon, offering a variety of routes and stunning views of the central Cascade Range. While the North Ridge via the Hayden glacier is not a technically difficult route, it can be a long day and all party members must be fit and rested. The first ascent was done as early as 1860. All of the Sisters offer opportunities to try out the famous “portable handholds” of the Cascades. Yummy milkshakes and good coffee in Sisters await the returning party. |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, North Sister, Geo-Graphics, Three Sisters, and USFS Three Sisters Wilderness Google map https://goo.gl/maps/3oc1EUeyLc82 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
