As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

While this route can be a chore to get to and usually requires a car shuttle, once you are on it it's the most direct line to the summit of Hood. This classic route is exposed and continuous, and confidence on steep snow is required. Be sure and check if the road to Cloud Cap is open - in a big snow year it may not melt out until late June. Early season climbs are possible, although starting at Cooper Spur ski area adds an extra 2,000 feet onto your climb.

Activity Notes

NOTE: This climb is a team-building and leadership activity, and so the accepted climbers will be from the Mazama Staff, Board of Directors, Climbing Committee, Climb Leaders, Leadership Development candidates, Committee volunteers, and/or instructors from the Mazama classes-- if this describes you, please let me know of your interest in this climb.

----

Mt. Hood (Wy'east) / Cooper Spur: grade III, moderate-to-high angle snow

This will be a single day climb the Cooper Spur route of Mt. Hood. We will start at the Tilly Jane trailhead and end at Timberline Lodge. This will require a car shuttle.

This climb requires...

  • training with axe/crampons on low-to-moderate angle snow slopes
  • self-arrest, and team rope travel skills
  • moderate physical fitness, all-day energy
  • moderate amount of snow climbing experience

If you're interested in participating in this climb up an iconic and classic route of Mt. Hood / Wy'east, please email me! If you're concerned about your skill readiness, I can provide additional training to shore up those skills and prepare you for this adventure.

-------------------------------------------------

As a note, when assembling climbers for a Mazama climb, I deliberately strive for a diverse, and balanced team. I principally take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, skill level for the route, and how they can contribute to the climb team’s diversity. Diversity consideration especially applies to the selection of the assistant and lead climber(s), to help expand the diversity in prospective Climb Leaders in the Mazamas.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, GeoGraphics Mt. Hood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks