This route is listed in Oregon High as an alternate to Wy'east. Technically it's a bit harder over more varied terrain. Like Wy'east, the more interesting approach and routefinding combined with steeper snow make this route a good one to try for the confident intermediate climber. This route is typically harder then Leuthold Couloir and easier than Sandy Headwall. A second ice tool for security and whacking pickets can be a good idea. In typical conditions, it's usually best to traverse east from the top of the Palmer rather than from lower down, to lose as little altitude as possible when you cross the White River Glacier. Bring a few small cams, tri cams and/or pitons for protecting the rock on the last traverse - if it's melted out, the rock is decent and may offer better pro than the snow. The last pitch can be is 50 plus degrees. With a larger party, it's best to simply fix 2 ropes over this section and have everyone come up on a handline, rather than take the time for a running belay. The technical crux might come at the base of the Cliffs, as you need to get up on a short ice bulge at the base that can approach 60-70 degrees.
|Driving Distance from Portland||65 miles|
|Driving Time from Portland||1 hours|
|Expected Duration||Car to car in one day|
|Relevant Books||Oregon High by Jeff Thomas|
|Relevant Maps||USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, and Geo-Graphics Mt. Hood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:>|
|Awards Qualified||16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks|