Three Fingers Mountain, North Peak

As an alpine climb, 3 Finger Mountain North Peak has it all. There is a small glacier with crevasses, 40-degree snow fields, and a complex rock climb over 4th and low 5th class rock with huge exposure. The setting is gorgeous and gives stunning views of every major peak from Canada to Rainier and the Straits of Juan de Fuca to the Cascade Crest. So what's not to like? None of the climbing guides gives the least suspicion that this is a difficult, complex, and long climb (18 hours for one recent party of 6). The rock quality is bad. The exposure is very high and requires at least 3 hand lines, one double rope rappel, and probably a single rope rappel. The climb should be attempted only in good weather. Anyone attempting this route should carry at least two 60-meter ropes and maybe three. They should keep the climb team small and be prepared for either a bivy or night travel over the glacier and rough trail back to camp.