Mt. Jefferson is the second highest mountain in Oregon, and a notch or two up in difficulty and commitment than the South side of Hood. The Milk Creek Glacier is seldom climbed, but offers the most direct route to the summit from the trailhead. Try this route only when snow covered - it's a steep scree slog later in the season. While one day ascents are possible for the fit climber, long days and unexpected bivies can be common. Be very cautious of rockfall on this route!! Do not attempt it if you see significant rockfall hazard. Be sure and check with the Detroit Lake USFS office for any permits needed for the Pamelia Lake trailhead - it's a heavily used area and advance permits may be needed.
|Driving Distance from Portland||120 miles|
|Driving Time from Portland||2 hours|
|General Route Info||"North Milk Creek Gully (aka Milk Creek) can be a fast climb on firm snow. From trailhead to summit, it is one of the shortest routes on Mt. Jefferson. Do not try to climb the Gully after the snow has melted, unless you enjoy loose scree, rockfall and waterfalls. The waterfalls are deathtraps just before they melt out and become visible." From Oregon High, by Jeff Thomas.|
|Expected Duration||Car to car in two or more days|
|Relevant Books||Oregon High by Jeff Thomas|
|Relevant Maps||USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Jefferson, and Geo-Graphics Mt, Jefferson|
|Awards Qualified||16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks|