She/They/Us: Introduction to Multipitch Climbing (Acker Rock / August 2024)

Activity Notes

Affinity Space:

This course is an affinity space operated for the She/They/Us affinity group: https://mazamas.org/affinitygroups/. All who self-identify as part of the community of women, genderqueer, and gender non-conforming folx interested in the outdoors are welcome.

Summary:

This is a short course where participants will receive some education and training for multipitch rock climbing by participating in (A) an in-person three hour training session at the MMC, (B) followed up by climbing the 10-pitch alpine rock route Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. The intended audience for this course is someone who has basic rock skills, some minimal outdoor rock climbing experience, perhaps some skills with lead belaying, who has no background with multipitch climbing.

Participants will climb on top-rope only-- you will not lead climb. The group of climbers will be divided into small teams of three, including two participant climbers and an assistant Instructor/lead climber. Each team will independently climb the route, however the teams will be in close proximity to each other.

Application questionnaire: (You will automatically be asked to complete this when you apply for this course)

NOTES:

• Course uses a Supportive and Safe Learning Environment (see statement below)
• Some participants will be required to lead belay, see the "Lead Belaying" section below.
• Participants will not be permitted to lead climb.
• This rock route has sustained and substantial exposure and is not suitable for those who really struggle with fear of heights.

(A) Training Session Details:

3-hour training and hands-on practice session

Mazamas Mountaineering Center

527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland, OR 97215

This hands-on training session will include a presentation of material about multipitch rock climbing in general, with specific details about the Acker Rock / Peregrine Traverse multipitch alpine rock route, and the bulk of the time will be spent on providing instruction and practice of the multipitch rock skills climbers will need to be successful as a team member. There will be a little time spent on review of basic material including harness checks, rope tie-in, and rappelling with a backup. There will be some time dedicated to covering the logistics of the Acker Rock climb weekend. Lead belaying will not be reviewed at this training session.

After this training session, students will be prepared to participate as a member of a team-of-3 for a multipitch rock route.

(B) Multipitch Rock Climb Details:

Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse (grade II, 5.7 sport/mixed, 10 pitches)

Acker Rock is a rock formation in the Umpqua National Forest in Southern Oregon. The Peregrine Traverse route is a long 10-pitch solid, well-protected rock route (bolts + some trad gear), with some significant exposure. The climbing is hardest on the 2nd, and 6th pitches, with a juggy 5.7, and vertical 5.6 (respectively) for about 30 feet in each case. Other than those sections, the climb simmers around the low 5th up to 5.5 grade. It's a long, fun, grand alpine tour of the rock formation, climbing on sticky solid rock, with great views of the surrounding forest. Overall, the route includes a two-mile approach, 10 pitches of mostly mid-5th class rock climbing, two rappels, a fire look-out tower at the summit, and walk-off down the access road back to the cars.

Team Selection:

We will climb Acker Rock as multiple independent teams-of-3 configuration; the team assignments, and other specific climb logistics will be organized and communicated as the trip gets closer (perhaps even adjusted day-of). When we make the final selection for the climb teams, we’ll use the following rubric to prioritize acceptance:

• Current, and competent with basic rock skills: especially those that have demonstrated they've used/practiced those skills in an outdoor setting
• Someone who hasn't climbed Acker Rock before
• BCEP or IAC recent graduate
• Lead Belay: current, and competent with lead belay skills, experience counts. We’re looking for a lead belay card from any major local rock gym (or sufficient outdoor experience). For this climb, we need to ensure a supply of at least four reliable lead belayers for a team of 12 on Acker Rock. Not all climbers need to be belayers, in fact we expect there will be climbers that don't have experience lead belaying (that's ok!), but we do need a minimum of four who can lead belay.
• Volunteerism: We like investing in folks that show evidence they want to invest back into the Mazamas. We like people paying it forward. We know it's hard to demonstrate this if you're new to the Mazamas. Don't worry about it, we’re realistic and practical about this point. If you volunteer elsewhere, let us know how you spend your volunteer time!

Logistics:

Because Acker Rock is a significant driving distance from Portland, we intend to carpool, and camp/potluck at a nearby campground. We will use some of the down-time at camp to distribute group gear (ropes), and allow climbing teams to meet and coordinate final details. There will also be an opportunity to review some specific team-based skills on the morning of the climb.

Skills:

This is not a typical basic-level climb. This activity takes place on a multipitch alpine rock climb that is geared towards new outdoor rock climbers who have spent a season getting some rock experience (e.g. a recent BCEP student who climbed during the summer). All participants will need to be current, and competent in all the basic rock skills.

Applicants must meet the minimum required basic rock skills for this activity include the following:

• Familiarity with moving on 4th and 5th class terrain
• Climbing while moving in balance
• Harness— Putting-on, adjusting, and performing a harness safety check
• Helmet— Properly wearing and adjusting a rock climbing helmet
• Tie into a rope for rock climbing
• Rappelling: Device setup w/ backup, BARK system check, proper rappel technique
• Using a horizontal fixed line

You should have some experience with those skills in an outdoor setting, to reinforce those basic rock skills. With regard to specific rock grades, you should be a casual, solid, and capable 5.9 top rope climber at any of the local rock gyms, and have spent at least 2-3 days climbing outside.

Please note: The above statements are not about being a hardcore rock climber-- rather it's about having solid and practiced rock skills.

Lead Belaying:

The logistics of this climb require that half of the participants will need to be experienced lead belayers-- to be a lead-belayer, you must have a lead-belay card from a local rock gym, or have experience lead belaying 25 or more outdoor crag routes.

Climbing Exposure Acknowledgement:

By proceeding with this application, I acknowledge that the multipitch alpine climb up Acker Rock will involve navigating through highly exposed rock climbing terrain. Furthermore, I understand that once the climb commences, it will be necessary to continue until completion, barring emergencies. If I experience significant fear of heights, this climb may not be suitable for me, and I may not find it enjoyable.

Supportive and Safe Learning Environment:

At 'Introduction to Multipitch Climbing,' we are dedicated to fostering a supportive and inclusive learning environment for all participants. We proudly affirm that this course is LGBTQ+ friendly and supportive, welcoming individuals of all gender identities and sexual orientations. We honor and respect each person's pronouns. Additionally, we strive to create a positive and supportive space that embraces diversity in all its forms. Regardless of race, age, gender, or life background, everyone is valued and respected here. It's our expectation that every applicant and accepted student will actively contribute to maintaining this safe and inclusive environment. Anticipate engaging in respectful dialogue and offering mutual support as we collectively strive for a positive and enriching alpine climbing experience.

Questions:

If you have questions or want some guidance about your rock climbing or lead-belaying experience, with regards to this climb, please contact us.