Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Unicorn Peak, the highest point in the Tatoosh Range on the southern end of Mt. Rain-Here National Park, is a fine choice for an easy snow-rock climb. "A good early season ascent", says Beckey. If you try it in late season, most or all of the snow will be gone and the pitch or two of 35-40 degree snow will not be an issue - but the tedious scree will be exposed.
Along with a park entrance fee, all of the Tatoosh peaks offer spectacular views of Mt. Rainier - on clear days. If you are a backcountry skier or boarder, bring your toys if you try this climb in early season (before mid June) - the bowls west of the main peak are beautiful. Climb the summit pinnacle on the east side, which is around to the right (counterclockwise) from where you approach it from the south. This east side is mucho mas easier than the south side of the summit block.
A few small cams and stoppers are a good idea to protect the short rock pitch. Rock shoes are not needed. Short rap off the top. Great glissading in early season! "Tatoosh" means 'nourishing breast " in the local native American language.
Combine with nearby yet seldom climbed Boundary Peak for a doubleheader day of peak bagging, or for a long three peak day, add Stevens Peak at the far east end of the range. Check the Tatoosh Peaks for other options for Tatoosh climbing.
Activity Notes
We have the Group Site at Cougar Rock Campground reserved the night before (6/12/24). Site F001, Loop F-Group. This is, of course, optional. It's a nice campsite, as close as one can camp to the trailhead, and a good opportunity to meet other folks on the climb.
Permits / Fees (Trail, entrance, parking):
Mt. Rainier NP requires a park pass for each vehicle (carpooling is recommended). A day pass is $30 while an annual pass is $55. A one-year pass, America The Beautiful Pass, gives access to all National Parks and federal lands, and is $80 (it includes the NW Forest Pass).
Approach, climb, and descent:
From the Snow Lake trailhead, the first 1.5 miles to Snow Lake will be up and down, with little elevation gain. Then we ascend a steep draw up Unicorn Creek to the cirque below Unicorn, where things level out a bit. Then comes a steep climb perhaps on snow to the Unicorn saddle followed by a moderate snow or scree slope to the base of the summit pinnacle. Some easy 5th class rock and we’re on top. We will rappel from the pinnacle, then descend the same route. It should be about 5 hours up, plus 3 down, which will put us back to the cars at about 4 pm and the Copper Creek Restaurant (if so inclined) by 4.45pm. The total ascent is approx. 2,400 vertical feet.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 150 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| General Route Info | The Tatoosh is a prominent subrange near Mt. Rainier National Park’s southern boundary. It’s a pretty mini-mountain range, with the world’s best view of Mt. Rainier. Unicorn, the highest and most enjoyable Tatoosh peak, offers relatively “painless” (your leader is not into pain this time of year) mixed scrambling and rock climbing in a spectacular alpine area (imagine a half-size scale model of Mt. Jefferson, close to the road). See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for more detailed look at this area’s geologic and climbing history. |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Interesting Features | Lake(s), Mountain Views, Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | Maps: USGS 7 minute series, Tatoosh Lakes and Mt. Rainier East; Green Trails: Mt. Rainier East / Packwood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.744344,-121.7047081,15.14z/data=!5m1!1e4?hl=en |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
