Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
*Please note; climb fee includes climbing permit ($22/person); the climbing permit fee is nonrefundable since it must be purchased in advance.
The Monitor Ridge route is the standard summer route, with the trailhead starting about 1000 feet higher than the winter snow park area.
St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater! This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for curent permit regulations, on the Mazamas Links page. Snow park permit required (OR permits are okay) between Nov 15 and April 30.
Activity Notes
WHO:
Beginning-to-intermediate climbers eager to ascend this iconic peak. Recent BCEP graduates are especially encouraged to apply. People from historically underrepresented groups like LGBTQ, BIPOC and women climbers are also encouraged. My goal is to create a supportive and cohesive team.
WHAT:
Mt. St. Helens is a Pacific Northwest icon, and the winter route can offer fun snow climbing and a beautiful glissade. The leader has already secured twelve permits for the climb for Friday, June 21, at the cost of $20.50 apiece. Climbers who join and climb, or who are selected and cancel within 7 days of the climb, will be asked to reimburse the leader for their permit.
WHERE:
**Update as of June 19th: the Climber's Bivouac trailhead is now open. We will be departing from Climber's Bivouac instead of Marble Mount and ascending Monitor Ridge.**
WHEN:
A car-to-car climb Friday, June 21st. We will depart the Climber's Bivouac trailhead at 5:30 AM, summit mid-day, and return in the evening.
WHY:
Beautiful views on an iconic peak and good times with friends! This is also one of the 16 Peaks of the Cascades and one of the Guardian Peaks.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 80 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens (If you get a topo map, be sure it’s 1980 or later. You may have a L O N G climb if you don’t! =^) Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.1896099,-122.196597,14.11z/data=!5m1!1e4?hl=en |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
