Although not the highest of the Tatoosh peaks, Pinnacle's central position and attractive form have made it the most popular ascent in the park. When the Mazamas climbed it on July 26, 1897, they dubbed it the "Matterhorn of the Cascades. From Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume I

The standard round up is an easy fourth class pitch of a south facing gully. This route takes the more challenging east face. Expect about three pitches of 5th class rock, the second pitch being 5.6.

Suggested gear: 4-5 medium to small nuts, 2-3 cams to 2.5 inches, 60m rope

Activity Notes

We will depart the Reflection Lake trailhead at 7 AM on June 10th and ascend on snow using ice axes and crampons as the conditions dictate.  Once we reach the saddle between The Castle and Pinnacle Peak we will leave our packs and set up a belay and fixed line to ascend the East Ridge of Pinnacle in two pitches.  Expect 4th class up to 5.6 climbing which can be done in boots.  Once the entire team has climbed the East Ridge we will walk/scramble together to the summit and enjoy the views before descending via rappel on the southwest side.  We will then traverse back to our packs and descend back down the snow slopes the way we came.

Elevation gain is roughly 1,650ft.  Round trip distance approximately 3 miles.  Despite its "C" rating, this climb is suitable for recent BCEP graduates and is a great introduction to multipitch alpine climbing.

Climb team members can either join us at a campsite at Cougar Rock campground the night before the climb or drive up early on the morning of the climb.  I'll also be leading a climb of Unicorn Peak on June 11th.  While these are not officially linked, I encourage climbers to apply for both if they are available!

Additional Costs: depending on how many people and cars we have at the campsite, camping will cost an additional $TBD per person.  Vehicle entry into Mount Rainier National Park is $30 per car.  Please keep these additional costs in mind when deciding to apply.

What to Expect After Applying: please apply by May 11th for initial consideration.  After May 11th, I will select the climb team and alternates and notify everyone via email of their status by mid-May.  My goal in selecting a climb team is to create a well balanced group with a diverse range of skills, backgrounds, and experiences.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 160 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge/156348
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Interesting Features Spectacular Views
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey 75 Scrambles in Washington by Peggy Goldman
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Tatoosh Lakes and Mt. Rainier East; Green Trails: Mt Rainier East / Packwood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=plummer+Peak+WA&sll=48.98385,-120.856519&sspn=0.016532,0.04549&ie=UTF8&ll=46.754093,-121.737099&spn=0.017259,0.04549&t=p&z=15"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:>
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