Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Starting with May 1 climbs, Climb Registration Fee includes Mt. St. Helens Permit Fee ($22/person).
This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!
This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.
Activity Notes
This climb is an excellent introduction to mountaineering straight outta BCEP. The route will take us thru Worm Flows past the Chocolate Falls and up onto Monitor Ridge. This is a 1 day out-and-back climb. While this climb should take approx. 10hrs to complete, the expectation is we may be slower since there will be novice climbers on the team. So please be patient if the climb is on the slower side.
You will need crampons, helmet, & an ice axe. An ice axe leash is required. A harness might be ideal for leashing your ice axe to yourself, but it is not required since there is no expectation of rappelling/prussiking. I recommend snowshoes for later in the day when the sun begins softening the snow. You will need sunglasses and sunscreen. There is no water on this route, so you will need to pack in all the water you need for the day. I would suggest 3 - 4 liters. Bring a lunch. Other than the above gear, water, food, and your clothing layers, your pack should be relatively light ~25lbs max. Be prepared for glissading later in the day if the conditions allow for it. When we get to the summit, stay back from the edge within 30ft.
Please add your to my carpooling sheet, even if you are driving separately so I can account for everyone: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_XbDR-5Rni42fupxs21c2Plmq0bwPFh7XhU2C7xE5U4/edit#gid=1039493708
Keep an eye on the current climbing conditions: https://www.mshinstitute.org/explore/climbing-permits/current-conditions.html
Keep an eye on the weather: https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-122.19570926204321&lat=46.18030584567751
Each climber accepted will be responsible for reimbursing me directly for your climbing permit ($20ea). I can take cash or Zelle/Venmo/Paypal.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 80 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Distance - Round Trip | 12 miles |
| General Route Info | summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
