Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Although not the highest of the Tatoosh peaks, Pinnacle's central position and attractive form have made it the most popular ascent in the park. When the Mazamas climbed it on July 26, 1897, they dubbed it the "Matterhorn of the Cascades. From Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume I
The standard round up is an easy fourth class pitch of a south facing gully. This route takes the more challenging east face. Expect about three pitches of 5th class rock, the second pitch being 5.6.
Suggested gear: 4-5 medium to small nuts, 2-3 cams to 2.5 inches, 60m rope
Activity Notes
We will be camping the night before (Sunday night) at Cougar Rock Campground—it’s a couple of miles past Longmire. Campsite fee is $5/night.
We will climb Castle first, then Pinnacle via the East ridge. Both climbs have 4th and low 5th class rock, rappelling, and snow travel. About 2000’ elevation gain.
The climb will move at a consistent pace, minimizing breaks but taking them as needed.
This climb is optionally linked with Unicorn Peak the day before. We encourage climbers to do one or the other, though some will want to climb both.
Priority will be given to novice climbers (and a few more experienced). Diversity, equity, and inclusion will be considered in the team selection process.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 160 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge/156348 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Interesting Features | Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey 75 Scrambles in Washington by Peggy Goldman |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Tatoosh Lakes and Mt. Rainier East; Green Trails: Mt Rainier East / Packwood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=plummer+Peak+WA&sll=48.98385,-120.856519&sspn=0.016532,0.04549&ie=UTF8&ll=46.754093,-121.737099&spn=0.017259,0.04549&t=p&z=15"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:> |
| Useful Links | Map |
