Shuksan is located approximately six miles to the east of Mount Baker in the North Cascades. Mssr. Beckey has this to say about this route: €œIt is a clever and tortuous route, not technically difficult, but involving stimulating route finding.€ (Ahh, that €œstimulating€ Beckey route finding!) This route can be a challenge for those who find steep snow and class 3-4 rock with big exposure to be unnerving. There have been some L O N G days spent on this peak by the unprepared. Know the route as best you can and start early.
Mt. Shuksan / Fisher Chimneys (grade III, 4th class, steep snow, glacier terrain)
This will be a three day trip to climb the Fisher Chimneys route of Mt. Shuksan, with one night camped in the high alpine on snow.
This climb requires...
- significant physical fitness for sustained all day climbing
- crevasse rescue skills
- moderate amount snow climbing experience
- strong skills with axe/crampons
- comfortable with 4th class slab rock terrain unprotected scrambling
We'll depart from the Lake Anne trailhead, and ascend nearly the entire route to the Sulfide Glacier, and move towards the summit pyramid to make camp on the snow. Physical fitness, curated gear selection, and good packing are important. To get to camp, we'll climb with full packs through ongoing technical terrain, sustained 4th class scrambling, and two glacier crossings (distance 7.0 miles, elevation change: +4902' -1686')
As a note, when assembling climbers for a Mazama climb, I deliberately strive for a diverse, and balanced team. I principally take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, skill level for the route, and how they can contribute to the climb team’s diversity. Consideration of diversity especially applies to the selection of the assistant and lead climber(s) to help expand the diversity in prospective Climb Leaders in the Mazamas.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.