Although not the highest of the Tatoosh peaks, Pinnacle's central position and attractive form have made it the most popular ascent in the park. When the Mazamas climbed it on July 26, 1897, they dubbed it the "Matterhorn of the Cascades. From Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume I

The standard round up is an easy fourth class pitch of a south facing gully. This route takes the more challenging east face. Expect about three pitches of 5th class rock, the second pitch being 5.6.

Suggested gear: 4-5 medium to small nuts, 2-3 cams to 2.5 inches, 60m rope

Activity Notes

UPDATES!

Prospectus

Carpool Spreadsheet

Weather Resources:  Mountain Forecast, NOAA, Windy, MeteoBlue 

(Carpool list and weather sites are also linked in the prospectus)

The plan is to start from the Reflection Lakes Trailhead in Rainier National Park.  We'll leave at 7 AM and hike on snow, using crampons and ice axes as needed on the approach.  When we reach the saddle between Pinnacle and Castle Peaks we'll leave our packs and climb Pinnacle over two pitches (top rope on Pitch 1, fixed line for Pitch 2).  The first pitch has some spots up to 5.6 grade, but this can generally be done with mountaineering boots.  With good weather we'll take in the view of Mt. Ranier to the north, then rappelling down the southwest route and hike back to our packs.  We'll return via the same route back to the trailhead.  Round trip is about 3 miles with roughly 1600' of elevation.

This is a great climb for recent BCEP graduates, utilizing both snow travel and rock skills.  

I plan to have camp sites at the Cougar Rock campground in the park Friday and Saturday nights.  Climbers can come up and camp or meet the team at the trailhead Sunday morning.  Cost for the campsite will be shared among those who opt to camp.

I'll also be leading a climb of Unicorn Peak on June 10th.  While these are not officially linked, I encourage climbers to apply for both if they are available!

Note: Vehicle entry into Mount Rainier National Park is $30 per car (this is good for 7 days).  Please keep the park fee and camping costs in mind when deciding to apply.

 

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 160 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge/156348
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Interesting Features Spectacular Views
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey 75 Scrambles in Washington by Peggy Goldman
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Tatoosh Lakes and Mt. Rainier East; Green Trails: Mt Rainier East / Packwood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=plummer+Peak+WA&sll=48.98385,-120.856519&sspn=0.016532,0.04549&ie=UTF8&ll=46.754093,-121.737099&spn=0.017259,0.04549&t=p&z=15"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:>
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