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Tip of the Week

This is the home page for all the Mazama Tips of the Week. We hope there are enough tips here to keep you busy for awhile!

If you have a tip you'd like to share, we're always looking for good ideas. Please send them to the Mazama web gnomes and we'll consider them.


This Week's Tip > Chalk bag on 7mm cord

Consider rigging your chalk bag on a 7mm or 8mm cord “belt” rather then clipping the bag to your harness with a ‘biner.  Tie the cord with a double fisherman’s knot, which simply slides to easily adjust to your waist size.  Be sure you have …

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General Mountaineering

Have a “plan B” for climbs - bring an extra guidebook
Eat and drink on the way to your climb
Earplugs
A knife for alpine routes
Taking in coils – how to shorten the rope on varied terrain
Cut webbing at a 45 degree angle
Bring your own alarm clock
Post climb comfort
Wear your watch on your neck
Steve House talks gear - video
A leash for your pack
Opening a stuck locking biner
Racking your runners - Do the Twist
Emergency contact info - what you need to share
Mark your climbing gear with fingernail polish
Alpine runners - a good length
The right way to tie into a harness
Keep a climb journal
Stow your ice axe fast while scrambling short rock sections
Daisy chain - where to attach it
Don’t clip the end loop on your daisy chain
Bring a few long tied runners for alpine routes

Rock Climbing

Chalk bag on 7mm cord
Creative quickdraws
A better way to practice rock gear placement
Jim Bridwell’s Casual Rating System
Learn to place rock pro by bounce testing
Cleaning stoppers
Duffle bag at the crag
Climbing maps - a better way to carry for rock climbing
Alpine rock pro - the basic rack
Locking biners on the quickdraws for a safe sport anchor

Snow Climbing

Glove tip - bring 2 pair
Glissading - not always your best option for descent
How to warm cold fingers
Crevasse rescue – choose your Rig for the level of Risk
A bit of tubing for glacier travel
Try a short static rope for glacier travel
An axe and a trekking pole
How to always have dry socks with only two pairs
Crevasse rescue tips - Pulleys and mechanical advantage 101
Get rid of your ice axe leash
Running belays - Max party size
Running belays - Middle person on a friction knot
Running belays - Consider a whistle
Running belays - The better way to rack pickets
Snow climbing tips
Assessing a possible avalanche slope
Dividing a rope for glacier travel
Neoprene gloves for winter
Cold weather water bottle tips
Tent anchors in snow
Melt snow while climbing
Universal crampons are your friend

Anchors and Knots

Two common mistakes in building rock anchors
"Wrap 3, pull 2" - about the strongest anchor you can build
Cordelettes - not as good as you thought
The importance of being EARNEST - a mnemonic for anchors
Use a door for climbing anchor practice
Uses of the butterfly knot
Get hitched - Learn the Tautline and Trucker's hitch
Learn the Klemheist knot

Belay and Rappel

Belayer’s responsibilities to climber
Belaying the second from the anchor
Belay communication - Rope pull signals
Snow belay tip – don’t use a “quickie” belay on a crevasse crossing
Speeding up a group rappel
Stuck rappel ropes - use brains, then brawn
Backing up a rappel anchor
Rapping with a heavy pack
Faster rappelling with a group
Rappel tip - Don't cross the lines
Hip belay tips
Belay tip - On which side of the body to tie into the anchor?
Rappel tip - Avoid rope snags
How many hand spans to the center of the rope?
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #1
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #2
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #3
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #4
A Better Way to backup your rappel
Belay brake hand - Palm up or palm down?
Passing a knot while belaying
A few rappel tips . . .
Adding friction to a rappel
Avoid the prussik as a rappel backup knot

Backcountry Skills

Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Nutrition
Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Clothing
Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Navigation
Carry some Tyvek paper
Expedition hygiene - 4 items for your kit
The perfect backcountry storage bottles
Top 10+ reasons why “hydration systems” are Less Than Ideal
Warmer bivys - arms inside that parka
Creek crossing safety
Melting snow for water
Start out with warm water on a winter hike or climb
Hiking really IS good for you
Organize your pack with stuff sacks
Avoid trailhead theft
Keep your water cold
Clean that smelly water bottle
Estimating daylight time
High elevation camping - night moves
Winter camping fires
Fire starting tip - plastic tubing
Fire starting tip - bicycle inner tube
Bear-proof your food - hang it on a rock
Car camping food containers
Staying clean on the trail
Hot weather camping tip: Keeping drinks cool
Hot weather camping tip: Use a plant mister

Gearhead's Delight

A better rechargeable battery
Gearspeak: What’s an “HMS” carabiner, anyway?
The perfect climbing watch
"Cheapskate locker" - use tape on a carabiner gate
How to clean your rope
Metric and inches - conversion chart for backpack volume
Dry out those boots
Hose clamps for a ski pole fix
Wire in the fix it kit
How to test boots for a good fit
Duct tape - carrying methods
Care of trekking poles
Tent colors
Tyvek - the perfect groundcloth
Garbage bags - extra strength for the backcountry
What's a kilonewton? Physics 101 for climbers
A great walking stick
A caution on compression stuff sacks
Electrical cord ties - great in the fix-it kit
Keep your soft shells in prime condition
Avoid fabric softener with your outdoor undies
Color code your runners
Sleeping bag liners
LED "keychain" lights
A cartridge stove cold weather tip
Quicklinks for alpine rappels

Do It Yourself (DIY) Gear Making and Modification

Mark your tent stakes for easier tracking
A Better Way to carry your cleaning tool
Do it Yourself (DIY): leashless ice tool tether
Make your own Gu
Do-It-Yourself Glove Retainers
Gaitor modification - replace that cord with a wire
Homemade chalk ball
Fix that rip - with seam grip
Shoe protection
Add gear loops to your pack for alpine climbing
Make a hanging stove
Winterize your ice axe
Modify your Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness - add a belay loop
Quick candle lantern
Another quick candle lantern
Lightweight pot lid
A lighter sleeping pad
Homemade alcohol stove

First Aid

Tick removal made easy
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) - a quick field check
No more blisters with polyester dress socks
Benzoin + duct tape = no blisters
Best way to carry benzoin for first aid kits
The "Five F's for climber fatigue
Glove storage for your first aid kit
Blisters - first aid tip
A cure for altitude sickness?
Two inch velcro for the first aid kit: lightweight, adjustable material for splints
A slick way to carry pills in your First Aid kit
Giardiasis - Backcountry water may be safer than you think

Route Planning and Navigation

Use a Route Card - the navigator's helper
Use Google Earth (GE) for route planning
Navigation Tips from the Mountaineers
Use the zoom on your digital camera to help with routefinding
Navigation Tip – Use a “finger scale”
Debrief after your climb
What to do if you are lost
How not to get lost
Using your altimeter watch more effectively
"Get lucky" by waiting for better weather
Get more from your web weather forecast
A (possible) faster route through Seattle
Get sunrise, sunset and moon phases from the web
Route information - Know the ups and the downs
Importance of a "Ground Plan" for climbing
Weatherproofing your maps

Food and Nutrition

Chocolate milk as a recovery drink
Hydration tips, part 1 - Why you need to drink in the mountains
Hydration tips, part 2 - How much and when
Bananas - the perfect pre-trip food
Condiment packets for backcountry dining
Sugar cubes
Home-made sport drink
Caffeinated climbing
"Ensure" your climbing success
Brown rice syrup as an alternative to Gu
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Forms & Paperwork  |  Conservation  |  General Info  |  Leader Profiles  |  Links  |  Lodge  |  MMC

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