Advanced Rock (AR)

Advanced Rock occurs from mid to late February through May. View the schedule. 

The application period typically opens in the beginning of December and stays open for 2 weeks. 

The Admission test occurs in early January and there are several date options.

High/Intense–The AR course schedule requires a significant time investment and you are discouraged from taking on other projects or classes while it is in progress.

Moderate–AR takes place over a period of three months.

2023 Tuition: $900 members/$1020 nonmembers

AR teaches trad climbing skills including gear placement, anchor building, lead climbing, rock rescue, mental and physical preparation, and planning and execution of climbs and trips.

The AR class will teach you how to use traditional protection systems, gear, and ropes in the vertical environment. The course is not intended to teach rock climbing technique. All applicants need to have the required prerequisites to be admitted into the class (see below).

Required prior to class: harness, personal safety, rock shoes, helmet, multiple carabiners, prusik slings, and belay device. 

If you already have a full rack of gear, that’s fine. But we discourage going out and buying a whole lot of gear before class. You’ll get to test out a variety of instructors’ gear throughout the class and you’ll learn a lot more about what you like.

• Age 18+
• In good physical condition
• Actively leading outside, with a minimum of 10 different routes (or pitches) in the last year 
• Comfortable leading a climb rated 5.8 or higher without a take or fall
• Have completed ICS Sport Lead class OR have a lead card at a local climbing gym.
• Proficient in basic skills of belaying, rappelling, knot-tying, clipping pro, and rock climbing techniques, including:
• Belaying: anchoring, climbing commands, belaying from below and above (top belay), belaying with either hand, belaying off the harness and belaying in autolock/plaquette mode off the anchor.
• Rappelling: convert a top rope anchor into a rappel.
• Knots: rewoven figure-8, butterfly knot, water knot, clove hitch, bowline, double fisherman’s knot, girth hitch, Munter hitch and Prusik hitch.

Enrolling in this class involves an application process. This includes personalizing and completing the Climb Resume template available on this page. It also includes completing the application form that is part of step 4 on the Advanced Rock 2024 page. You will need to provide a link to your personalized and completed climb resume as part of that application form.

After the application period is over, the course committee will select qualified students to come in for an admissions test. The top-scoring applicants will be admitted to the class. Notifications usually go out two weeks after the admission test.

We are offering a limited number of scholarships for students who would not otherwise be able to participate and whose participation can help expand the Mazamas membership base beyond current cultural, economic, and ethnic demographics.

Mazamas may cover up to 90% of the course tuition based on factors listed above. Other costs associated with the course, including required gear and transportation, are not covered. You also must have access to a computer, smartphone, or tablet to participate in the course. 

Applications for scholarships will be part of the class application. 

• AR is demanding in terms of time and gear, so apply only if you can make the necessary commitment.
• Participation in all lectures and field sessions is required.

The admission test is required prior to acceptance and will test a variety of the skills listed above in prerequisites. You are required to bring your personal climbing gear to this test.

To complete AR and receive the AR badge, a student must:

Attend all instructional field sessions; attend both high-angle rescue lectures (typically the last two Tuesdays in March); pass the HAR competency test; and complete the pitch and evaluation requirements at the Smith climbing field sessions specified in your student handbook. NO EXCEPTIONS. 

If you fail to meet these requirements, or if you fail to attend in-person more than two lectures, you will be dropped from the class without refund. You may reapply for the class again the following year if you choose. For medical emergencies, we will follow the Mazamas policies.